Forum Oficjalnego Klubu Mitsubishi - MitsuManiaki

[best_x_treme]

Since the car is working great and haven't invested much in repairs lately I'm thinking to buy an evo momo steering wheel. So if you have one for sale or can help me to buy one please contact me by private message .

[best_x_treme]

Just bought from ALLEGRO a (very nice ) MOMO steering wheel and a steering column from lancer. I'm planning to install this by changing the steering column, anybody done this before? Seems to works without any modifications.

[W@sio]

I'm not sure how to do it properly, but as I remember entire steering column is like a bit (1 or 2 cm) shorter and the steering wheel doesn't fit perfectly. You would need to replace one element of the column, the one which holds the steering wheel. If I'm wrong, please someone write how it suppose to be done well

[best_x_treme]

Thanks Peter, I'll keep that in mind, hope it will fit without needing to cut anything.
Here's a link with an install on Outlander: https://www.drive2.ru/l/7085850/

[best_x_treme]

Well, seems I have to do a major renovation of suspension, both front and back... I guess nothing new for a new Outlander owner . The front CROSSMEMBER is in quite bad shape, so I've found a used original, should be here in few days, from sunny Spain :


the condition of front suspension


the new CROSSMEMBER, used but hopefully no rust - 140 euro shipped seemed like a good deal to me

The back CROSSMEMBER looks acceptable, so I will take it down, sanding and repainting.

I'm planning to replace mostly all bolts and nuts with new ones.

Can somebody recommend a good aftermarket front arm? OE numbers 4013A131(4013A132). I found manly aftermarket arms with number MR961391 (MR961392), first edition, will this work too? It's seems to me the only difference from 4013A131 is that Mitsubishi integrated MR554819 stopper into the arm itself.

This big rear bushing 4120A012, should I buy it OE? Aftermarket seems to be only Febest or GSP.

If you have any recommendation before I start this, I'll be very grateful to read it. Thanks!

[tościk]

[best_x_treme]

Yes, I think I will get these PU from Olkusz, together with their 4x4 differential bushings. Thanks tościk!

[best_x_treme]

I've finally managed to finish a major restoration of front and back suspension. So let’s review what has been changed:
- front suspension crossmember was replaced with a used one and new suspension arms made by SIDEM. I’ve changed some steering parts too: Tie Rod End 555 SE-B011 + Tie Rod Axle Joint CTR CRM-26 + MB266164 WASHER, STEERING GEAR + SIDEM 371.038 Bellow, steering. New steering fluid Mobil Mobil ATF 320 (1l)
- renovation of back crossmember, cleaning and painting. New OE arms MN100086 + MN100109, OE bushings for lower arm MN100110 + 4113A062. This big bushing, 4120A012, I’ve replaced with poliuretany from olkusz.
- stabilizer bar OE bushings with new brackets and bolts.
- rear differential bushings replaced with poliuretany from olkusz.
- anti-roll bars front and back
- almost all bolts, washers and nuts were replaced with new OE.

Additional I’ve changed the front brakes, with the ones from ASX: almost new OE calipers, Textar discs and pads. For the back, only the parking brake cables and shoes were replaced. New brake fluid Mobil DOT 4 (1l).

All this was pretty expensive, in one visit to workshop I’ve spent around 8.000 PLN for parts and 3.000 PLN labor costs, so in total more than 2K Euro. Yes, it’s a lot of (hard) work to do this, mainly because almost all bolts are seized and most workshops don’t want to do it, they only like easy work. The workshop initially thought it will do it in 2 days, but in the end, it took them 6 days to finish it.

And some pics:





The front crossmember as received from sunny Spain, notice the perfect condition, this has never seen winter road salts!



almost new ASX calipers



a box full of OE bolts ans small parts



























some of the old parts







the front calipers, not very healthy looking

[best_x_treme]

I've changed the steering wheel with MOMO, more details here: https://forum.mitsumaniaki.pl/viewtopic.php?p=1659604

[robertdg]

Oddly satisfying, good job

[best_x_treme]

I saw is a common problem with power windows on Outlander 1, my driver door glass was working more down than up lately. So I've decided to open up to see what's wrong. I've bought in advance a mechanism with cable from polcar (5265PSG1), but it turned out than cable was good, the problem was with the motor, I can't believe how much rust was inside . I've read somewhere that you can swap the back motors with the front ones, so I've bought a pair used from the back. Luckily these proved to be be in excellent condition, no sign of rust inside ! To replace the driver side motor, you will have to use the motor from right back (not left!, you swap them in diagonal). The motors are almost identical, the only part you will have to keep is the circuit board that is under 3 screws. I've cleaned and greased everything with silicon grease, sealed with new liquid gasket (Reinzosil), so as a result the power window works like new . I think this approach is better than buy used front motors, the back one are usually in better condition, less used and much cheaper.

[best_x_treme]

New oil change, I've used my favorite oil as always, Valvoline SynPower 5W40 with OE oil filter (this is what I used on my old 1.8T Golf 4 GTI too). I've changed the oil pan too, with new screws and Reinzosil for the gasket. The old one was rusty, not leaking yet, but I hate rust, so I got rid of her in time .

5,000 kilometres with this oil, NO oil consumption, I've checked several times, but nothing, I'm impressed!

[best_x_treme]

I did the same thing for right front power window. This one was working fine, but I've decided to check it anyway. Surprisingly the motor was in perfect condition inside, just some rust on outside on the bolt that sends power from the motor to lifting mechanism. I've replaced the motor with the one from the back that I already had, so I should be fine with power windows for a long time, I hope

[best_x_treme]

Tail gas springs were pretty tired, so after hitting my head several times on the door I've decided to change them. Plus some other small things like a new hood support.

[best_x_treme]

I've repaired the rear brakes too, one of the wheels was dragging because of a stuck piston and even on short rides, the wheel was pretty hot. I've bought a pair of rear calipers in pretty good condition, which I've restored with original gasket kits. The pistons on these were like new, so no need for new ones. New Textar disks and pads, as in front. All good for now.